Our rainy summer has yielded amazingly green lawns this August, lush gardens well populated with slugs, and bountiful crops of kale and Swiss chard. Sadly, corn, tomatoes, and even peppers and summer squash have lacked the usual heat of summer and are late in ripening.
The sweet, full flavor of wild blueberries and tomatoes has been noticeably reduced this year due to our cloudy days. That is the fate of all farmers and gardeners: the vagaries of the seasonal crops we cherish. However, it has been a banner year for wild mushrooms.
Looking at the positive side of this year’s harvest, the seasonal cook invariably seeks colorful ways to present fresh flavors in interesting combinations.
Ginger-shrimp soup with kale and corn
Ginger shrimp soup with kale and corn (Photo courtesy I. Winicov Harrington)
Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a three-quart pot and stir fry 1 medium chopped onion, 2 chopped garlic cloves, and 4 cups de-ribbed and torn washed kale 3-4 minutes. Stir in juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 1/2 tsp finely chopped ginger, 4 cups vegetable broth, 2 cups water, 1/2 tsp salt, 1/4 tsp lemon pepper, and 1 tbsp fish sauce. Bring to boil and simmer for 12-14 minutes. Stir in a dozen large shrimp, cleaned and cut into bite-size pieces. Stir in fresh corn cut from two cobs and cook until shrimp turn opaque. Remove from heat, let sit for 5 minutes before serving garnished with chopped chives.
The rains have given a bumper crop of mushrooms this year. Many farmers markets are a source of wild mushrooms in summer and the colorful chanterelles were a real pleasure to cook. This recipe would also taste delicious with shiitake or oyster mushrooms, though less colorful in appearance.
Chanterelles in cream sauce
Brush or wipe with a damp paper towel 1-quart or slightly more of fresh mushrooms. Discard tough stems and cut into bite size pieces. Heat 1 tbsp olive oil and 2 tbsp unsalted butter in a large pan and when sizzling add mushrooms and one thinly sliced large shallot. Saute for 5 minutes. Add 1/3 cup julienned sundried tomatoes, juice of 1/2 large lemon, 1/2 tsp lemon pepper and 1/2 cup chicken broth. Cook to reduce liquid to 1/2 volume, stir in 1/3 cup heavy cream, and heat without boiling. Serve over pasta garnished with fresh basil leaves.
Clafoutis is one of my favorite baked summer fruit desserts that is still light. It originated in France and is fruit baked in a flan batter. The dish is usually made with cherries, but the frustrating job of pitting 2 cups of black cherries many years ago, made me switch the recipe to plums with equally delicious results.
Black plum clafoutis
Plum clafoutis (Photo courtesy I. Winicov Harrington)
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Melt 4 tbsp unsalted butter in a 10-inch-deep dish pie or quiche pan and swirl the butter to coat the sides of the pan. Wash and pit 4 large black plums, cut each half in 4 slices, toss with 1/4 cup sugar, and distribute the fruit evenly on the bottom of the buttered pan.
In a blender or with a hand mixer in a bowl, combine 3 eggs, 1/3 cup sugar, 1 cup milk, 1 tsp vanilla extract, 1 tsp lemon extract, 1/2 tsp salt, and 3/4 cups flour. Do not overmix, but when blended pour over the plums. Sprinkle with nutmeg and bake for 40-45 minutes until puffed, slightly browned and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Serve warm in wedges with a dusting of powdered sugar if desired.
My annual wild blueberry flat was a bit of disappointment in flavor this year for eating them fresh. However, the berries still made excellent pies, muffins, and, cooked with a bit of sugar and lemon juice, made a delicious topping for lemon pudding. Nothing like a bit of kitchen magic to improve any crop.
(I. Winicov Harrington lives in coastal Maine and is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less than $5.00 a Day: The Smart-Frugal Food Plan.” For more information, go to winicov-harrington.com.)
