Currant buns with apricot glaze (Photo courtesy I. Winicov Harrington)
Last week it was tempting to paraphrase Gilbert and Sullivan: “The snowflakes that fall in the spring, Tra la, have nothing to do with the spring.” A relatively mild early March had lulled us hoping for an early spring only to remind us, the week before Easter, of our northern location. However, the vase of forced forsythia branches on our table inspires me to think of foods for the season.
Hot cross buns on grocery shelves are a reminder of the rich heritage of various buns from the British Isles. Fans of Jane Austen and other writers from the 19th century will recognize such names as currant buns, Bath buns, and Sally Lunn. These are all rich yeast dough buns served for breakfast, tea, or as a snack, varying only in size and inclusions like currants, raisins, candied citron, and spices.
Here is my relatively straightforward recipe for currant buns. This recipe uses a stand mixer, but hand kneading will give equally tasty results.
Currant buns with apricot glaze
Dissolve 1 tsp sugar in 1/2 cup lukewarm water and stir in 1 package active dry yeast. It should be frothy and doubled in volume in about 10 minutes.
In the meantime, melt 1/4 cup unsalted butter in a small pot, stir in 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 tsp salt, 1/4 tsp nutmeg, and 3/4 cups milk. Heat all to lukewarm, making sure the sugar is completely dissolved.
Turn butter and milk mixture into the large mixer bowl, stir in the frothy yeast mixture and 2 fork-beaten eggs. On a low setting incorporate 1 cup of all-purpose flour, switch to a dough hook and add 3 more cups of flour. When flour is fully incorporated set the mixer on No. 2 setting and knead for 10 minutes. Scrape dough into a well-greased large bowl, turn, cover bowl with a towel, and allow to rise in a warm place for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Plump 2/3 cup of dried currants in a small bowl with some boiling water for 20 minutes. Drain currants and pat dry.
Ham and fried apples (Photo courtesy I. Winicov Harrington)
Slightly beat down the risen dough and turn out on a well-floured board. Flatten out to about 12-inch-by-10-inch shape and sprinkle the currants all over the surface. Fold the dough over and knead with a bit of additional flour to distribute the currants. Form a 12-inch log, cut it into 12 pieces, and roll each one to form a ball.
Place the balls on a well-greased pan about 2 inches apart. Cover with a towel and allow to rise again for 30 minutes. Bake in a 400-degree preheated oven for 15 minutes.
For glaze, melt 2 tbsp apricot jam with 1 tbsp water in small dish. Set your rack on top of a piece of wax paper for the baked buns to catch excess glaze. Baste the still warm buns with melted jam. Enjoy warm or at room temperature with a bit of butter.
Easter dinner calls for a traditional ham, which you can bake for several hours with a glaze or heat a wrapped, ready-cooked ham for a shorter time. Both are well complemented by fried apples, requiring only a pan, 1/2 cup butter, 1/3 cup sugar, 1 tbsp cinnamon, and 4 Fuji or Pink Lady apples sliced and cored, cooked in 5-7 minutes just before serving.
Asparagus, the traditional Easter vegetable, will get a new treatment this year at our house and will introduce the dinner as an elegant asparagus soup. This recipe is adapted from Jacqueline Hériteau’s “A Feast of Soups.”
Cream of asparagus soup
Combine 1/2 cup sour cream with 1 cup heavy cream in a small bowl and set aside at room temperature.
Snap tough ends off 1 lb asparagus, wash, and cut the green parts in 2-inch pieces. Set aside a few spear tips for garnish. In a 3-quart pot melt 2 tbsp butter on low heat, stir in 2 tbsp flour to make a roux, and slowly stir in 1 cup of chicken broth to make a thick sauce.
Stir in 3 additional cups of chicken broth, bring to boil, add the asparagus, and cook for 15 minutes. Cool slightly and puree in a blender. Return soup to pot, stir in 1/2 tsp lemon pepper, 1/8 tsp mace, and 1 cup milk. Heat to boiling, stir in the cream and heat again to just before boiling. Serve hot garnished with asparagus tips or chopped chives.
According to Doug Larson,” Spring is when you feel like whistling even with a shoe full of slush.”
(I. Winicov Harrington, of Waldoboro, is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less Than $5.00 a Day: The Smart-Frugal Food Plan” and “Uncharted Journey from Riga.” For more information, go to winicov-harrington.com.)
