Chicken puttanesca (Photo courtesy I. Winicov Harrington)
Last night the crickets in the garden were most insistent in their song, signaling the end of summer and our approaching fall. Fall is my favorite time of the year when the nights are cool, and the days are still full of brilliant sun. This time of the year also can’t help to energize the cook when viewing the colorful vegetable mounds at local farmers markets.
A recent small family gathering required a meal prepared on short notice and between the freezer and a recent trip to the local market it was fun to assemble a colorful repast. Pasta puttanesca is a staple in summer at our house but would not fill the hearty appetites of two of the diners, leading me to adapt the sauce to chicken with tasty results.
Saucy chicken puttanesca
Salt and pepper 8-10 chicken drumsticks and fry in 2 tbsp olive oil for 10 minutes, browning the drumsticks on all sides in an oven-proof pan. Set the meat aside.
In the same pan stir in 4 thinly sliced garlic cloves and cook for 1 minute, stir in 1 tbsp anchovy paste, 2 tbsp double strength tomato paste, 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes, and blend for 1 minute. Stir in 1 diced tomato, 3/4 cup green and 1/2 cup Kalamata olives halved, 2 tbsp drained capers, and 4 long strips of lemon zest. Cook to reduce volume for 5 minutes.
Evenly distribute the drumsticks over the vegetables in the pan, add 1 cup of water, and bring to simmer. Place the pan in a 350-degree oven and bake for 25 minutes. If your supermarket chicken drumsticks are very large, bake for 35 minutes.
Remove pan from oven and plate the chicken in a dish with sides. Return the pan to the stove and reduce the sauce together with 2 tbsp chopped parsley and 2 tbsp chopped fresh basil (optional). Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve with boiled new potatoes.
Roast cauliflower and carrots with pumpkin seeds
Cauliflower/carrot/pumpkin seeds (Photo courtesy I. Winicov Harrington)
Break apart or cut a head of cauliflower in medium-sized florets. Wash and slice 2 large carrots diagonally into 1-inch pieces.
In a medium bowl mix 2-3 tbsp. olive oil with 1 1/2 tbsp balsamic vinegar, 1/2 tsp garlic powder, and 1/4 tsp pepper. Toss the vegetables to coat in the mixture and spread in a single layer on a foil-lined pan. Sprinkle with kosher salt and broil for 5 minutes.
In the meantime, toss 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds in the oil mixture. Remove pan from oven, turn the vegetables with a spatula, and sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds. Return pan to broiler for an additional 4 minutes. Remove pan from the oven and toss to mix well in a bowl. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Local peaches in Maine peak in late August and early September. Both peach pie and crumble are delicious, but since there were not enough on hand for either we had peach shortcakes instead.
Peach shortcake
Bake 6-8 small biscuits according to directions of a commercial biscuit mix.
Briefly dip 8 small (or 4 very large) peaches in boiling water to ease the removal of the peel. If peaches are not fully ripe it will be necessary to peel them. Pit and peel the peaches, slice in 8-10 slices in an enameled or steel pot containing 2/3 cup dry white wine, 1/4 tsp nutmeg, 1/8 tsp ground cloves, and 1-inch peeled ginger, grated. Bring to a gentle boil, stir in 1/2 cup sugar and simmer the fruit until soft and the mixture thickens. Set aside and allow to cool.
Cut each biscuit in half, spread with a slightly heaped tablespoon of the cooked peaches, top with the other half of the biscuit, and another helping of cooked peaches. Serve with whipped cream and enjoy the flavors of the fading summer.
To quote John Steinbeck: “What good is the warmth of summer, without the cold of winter to give it sweetness.” But that sweetness is saved in nature’s grand gesture – the coming fall.
(I. Winicov Harrington, of Waldoboro, is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less Than $5.00 a Day: The Smart-Frugal Food Plan” and “Uncharted Journey from Riga.” For more information, go to winicov-harrington.com.)
