The icicles from my roof keep growing at such alarming rate these days that I’m willing to take seriously the recent prognostications of that sleepy marmot in Pennsylvania. Even the meteorologists have jumped on the bandwagon with their predictions of continued Arctic blast. For the home cook it is a clear signal to retrieve recipes for favorite warming soups.
Soup is one of those warm and filling dishes produced in a pot on the stove with liquid, meat or fish, flavorful grains or vegetables, limited only by imagination of the cook. And yet its origins go back about 20,000 years when archaeologists record that, ancient humans in Egypt, China, and even Neanderthals made bone broth in leather or basket containers. Since these could not be placed on an open flame the water had to be heated by dropping in hot stones!
As cooking evolved by the time of Romans, broth was used to soak bread, from which the word soup was derived.
Latino black bean and rice soup
Soak 1 cup dried black beans in excess cold water overnight and drain. Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a 4 qt pot and saute 1 large onion chopped, 4 minced garlic cloves, 1 celery stalk, 1 medium carrot finely chopped, 1 seeded and de-ribbed green pepper chopped, 1 tsp oregano, 1 tsp cumin and 1/2 tsp turmeric for 5 minutes. Add the beans and 4 cups low salt chicken broth and 1/2 tsp pepper. Bring to boil and cook on medium low heat for 1 hour.
Stir in 2 tbsp tomato paste, 1 tsp salt, and 3 tbsp red wine vinegar. Simmer for 30 minutes. Stir in 2 cups cooked brown rice, adjust liquid to desired consistency and heat thoroughly. Serve hot in bowls garnished with sour cream, sliced radishes, or parsley.
Minestra di ceci
The recipe was adapted from “The Italian Country Table,” by Lynne Rosetto Kasper.
Soak 1 cup chickpeas in cold water overnight. Drain the peas and cook for 40 minutes covered with 2 inches of water with added 2 tbsp dried onion flakes, 1 bay leaf, 7 cloves, and 1/2 tsp salt. Remove bay leaf and cloves.
Peel and chop 1 medium onion, 2 small carrots, 1 parsnip, and 1 celery stalk with leaves. Coarsely shred 1 cup cabbage. In a large pot, heat 2 tbsp olive oil and saute the vegetables for 10 minutes, add 2-3 chopped garlic cloves, and saute for additional 2 minutes.
Stir in 4 cups water, 1 1/2 tsp salt, leaves from two 6-inch stems of fresh rosemary, a 2- to 3-inch piece of Parmesan rind, 1 tsp sage, 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes, 1/4 cup chopped sundried tomatoes, and 1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley. Cook for 30 minutes, stir in 1 small yellow squash diced, the cooked chickpeas with liquid, and 1/4 cup ditalini or other small pasta and cook for another 12 minutes. Serve hot, topped with Parmesan.
Soups made with legumes and crusty bread or savory muffins can provide a satisfying meal. However, for occasional elegant variety you can’t beat cheese straws. They are quite easy to make with commercially available puff pastry dough and are delicious.
Parmesan or aged Asiago cheese straws
Thaw 1 sheet of a 17.3 oz package of frozen puff pastry sheets (found in the frozen food section) according to directions. Preheat oven to 400 degrees and assemble 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan or aged Asiago cheese, 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water, and finely chopped 1-2 tbsp Italian parsley.
Unfold the thawed pastry on a floured board and roll it in 14-inch-by-10-inch rectangle. Cut it in half crosswise. Brush each half with the beaten egg. Top one half with the shredded cheese, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp dried oregano leaves and the chopped parsley. Lay the other half of the pastry egg-side down on top. Using a rolling pin lightly seal the halves. Cut the pastry crosswise in 1/2-inch strips, twist each strip, and lay on a nonstick pan, pushing down the ends to anchor it. Do not use parchment. Brush each twist with the egg wash.
Bake at 400 degrees for 10-12 minutes to golden brown. Cool on wire rack and serve. Store in airtight container or in humid weather they will get soft.
(I. Winicov Harrington, of Waldoboro, is the author of “How to Eat Healthy and Well for Less Than $5.00 a Day: The Smart-Frugal Food Plan” and “Uncharted Journey from Riga.” For more information, go to winicov-harrington.com.)
